Результаты поиска

Why this guide matters:  Every set of three-piece wheels in the WheelsGang catalog lists disk type and X-factor measurements next to the usual diameter, width, and offset. Those numbers aren’t filler; they’re the reason your brand-new rims either spin freely or smack straight into your brake calipers. Below you’ll learn exactly what “low disk,” “medium disk” and “high disk” mean, how X-factor is measured, and how to choose the shallowest disk (and therefore the deepest lips) that still clears your brakes. 0 | Why “Disk Science” Became Critical (A Brief History) 1980s : Japanese tuners tweak offset but keep modest single-piston brakes, so a one-disk-fits-all  mindset works. 1990s : Skyline GT-R, NSX & Supra push multi-piston calipers; Work and SSR introduce “low” vs “high” disk castings. 2000s : Massive OEM Brembos and aftermarket big-brake kits explode; wheel brands add middle ground (A-, R-, MD-disks). 2010s : Carbon-ceramic rotors and 6–8-piston calipers demand even higher  disks; lips shrink, spacers rise in popularity. Today : Digital CAD + CNC let makers offer 5 + disk profiles per model - but the buyer must choose wisely. 1 | What Is Disk Type? Think of a three-piece wheel as three separate parts: the barrel , the lip , and the center disk  (also called the face ). Disk type describes the profile  of that center casting or forging - specifically, how far the spokes sit away from the hub mounting pad. Low disk (sometimes “L-disk,” “SL-disk,” or “W-disk”) Spokes sit closest to the hub.  Maximum exposed lip depth, but the least brake-caliper clearance. Medium disk (“M-disk,” “MD,” “NR,” “A-disk”) A compromise profile. Moderate lip, extra millimeters of spoke curvature or back-pad thickness for bigger calipers. High disk (“H-disk,” “T-disk,” “HP,” “HI”) Spokes sit farthest from the hub.  Built-in spacer on the back pad and/or extra spoke concavity. Clears large multi-piston calipers but leaves less room for lip depth. Manufacturers alter disk type by: Adding material to the back pad  (like machining a built-in spacer). Altering spoke shape  (deeper concave or a pronounced “C” curve). Combining both  for extreme big-brake kits. 2 | Why Disk Type Affects Lip Size & Offset Lower disk = spokes closer to the hub = more  space in front of the face for a deep lip. But every millimeter the spokes move inward, the wheel’s overall offset becomes more negative . A higher disk moves spokes outward, reducing lip depth and pushing the offset more positive . That’s why: Front wheels with giant calipers often need high or medium disks . Rear wheels (smaller calipers) can usually run low disks  for a show-stopping lip. 3 | What Is X-Factor (Caliper Clearance) and How We Measure It X-factor is the vertical distance (in millimeters) from the wheel’s mounting pad to the point where the back of the spoke would touch a brake caliper. We measure it in-house with a machined cone gauge: Place the gauge flat against the hub pad. Slide until it contacts the innermost surface of a spoke. Read the number where the cone meets the pad. You’ll see this figure in every WheelsGang listing. Match it to your brake-caliper “poke” (see next section) and aim for ≥ 3 mm extra clearance. 4 | How to Measure Your Brake Calipers in Five Minutes Wheel off, car on jack stands. Lay a metal ruler across the brake rotor’s face (where the wheel sits). Use a feeler gauge or Vernier caliper to measure caliper protrusion - how far the caliper body sticks out beyond the rotor’s hat. Compare that dimension to the wheel’s X-factor. If the caliper is within 2–3 mm of the X-factor, you’re at the limit; size up disk type or plan on a small slip-on spacer. Tip:  Rear brakes are almost always smaller, so you can often run a lower disk (deeper lip) out back without issues. 5 | Brand-by-Brand Disk Labels (Quick Reference - No Table Needed) Work Wheels Lowest clearance/ least clearance : W-Disk, O-Disk Mid-range : A-Disk, R-Disk Maximum clearance : T-Disk SSR Wheels Lowest clearance : SL (Super-Low) Disk Mid-range : NR (Normal) or MD (Mid) Disk Maximum clearance : HP (Hyper) Disk Weds Kranze Lowest clearance : LO Disk Mid-range : MD Disk Maximum clearance : HI Disk Remember: Naming varies by brand, but the physics never changes. Always confirm the wheel’s X-factor measurement against your brake-caliper protrusion - don’t rely on labels alone. 6 | Barrel (Drop-Center) Clearance  -  The Other Half of the Equation Even if the spokes clear, a caliper can still rub the wheel barrel. That’s dictated by wheel diameter and lip style: Reverse or full-face barrels  have the most internal room. Step-lip barrels  lose roughly one inch of barrel clearance compared with reverse-lip of the same outer diameter. Double-step lips  (found on some vintage or VIP builds) lose almost two inches. 7 | Disk Choice vs. Aesthetics  -  Finding Your Balance Decide the largest lip you need . Measure your brakes for minimum X-factor. Select the lowest disk that still meets or beats that X-factor. Confirm barrel clearance if downsizing diameter or using step lips. If you end up within 1–2 mm of contact, add a 3–5 mm slip-on spacer  and re-measure; that tiny change can save thousands in custom-wheel reworks. 8 | Real-World Examples from WheelsGang Inventory Work VS-SS “H-Disk” fronts / “SL-Disk” rears   -  Perfect for Nissan Z cars running Brembo fronts and stock rears. Leon Hardiritt Bugel “Med Disk” all-round   -  Clears Lexus GS four-pot brakes while keeping respectable 2-inch lips. SSR Agle Strusse “Low Disk”   -  Ideal for older Skyline/240SX platforms with smaller calipers; huge lips, no spacer required. Check each product page for disk type + X-factor in millimeters; then compare to your brake measurements. 9 | Frequently Asked Questions Fitment & Clearance Q : Can I just grind the caliper for clearance? A : Light shaving is common on race cars, but for street builds it’s safer to choose the correct disk or add a 3–5 mm hub-centric spacer. Grinding can weaken caliper bridges. Q : Does brake-pad wear change clearance? A : Only by a fraction of a millimetre. Pads sit fully inside the caliper housing, so X-factor remains essentially constant throughout pad life. Q : I upgraded to a big-brake kit after ordering wheels - what now? A : Measure the new calipers, then contact us. Options include switching to a higher-disk face, adding a slim spacer, or relipping the wheel for more back-pad thickness. Q : Can a wheel with huge concave spokes still be low disk? A : Yes - if the concavity curves inward toward the hub. Disk height is determined by the spoke’s rearmost point, not the face’s visual depth. Q : My barrel and spokes clear, but the valve stem hits the caliper. Solutions? A : Swap to low-profile angled metal stems, relocate the stem to the outer lip (if the design allows), or use a 3 mm spacer. Q : Do carbon-ceramic brakes expand when hot? A : Minimal growth (<0.1 mm). Your 3 mm safety margin remains adequate even at track temps. Q : How close is “too close” for spoke-to-caliper clearance? A : We recommend at least 3 mm cold. Anything under 2 mm risks contact under hard braking or pad knock-back. Q : What if the wheel clears everywhere except one caliper’s bridge bolt? A : Small chamfers on the bolt head or using low-profile bolts often gain 1–2 mm - safer than grinding the caliper body. Wheel Specs & Measurement Q : What’s the fastest DIY method to check X-factor? A : Tape two stacked business cards to the rotor hat, mount an old wheel, spin gently. If the cards are untouched you have ≈ 3 mm clearance. Replace with accurate caliper measurements before ordering. Q : How do step-lip and reverse-lip barrels differ in brake clearance? A : A single step lip loses roughly 13 mm (½″) of inner radius compared with a same-diameter reverse-lip barrel. Double-step loses about 25 mm (1″). Q : Can I downsize wheel diameter and keep the same brakes? A : Only if the barrel ID of the smaller wheel still exceeds the caliper radius. Step-lip construction often fails here - measure twice. Q : Does rotor offset affect spoke clearance? A : Yes. Higher rotor offset moves the caliper inboard, increasing clearance. Swapping to two-piece rotors with custom hats is a legit solution for tight setups. Q : What torque spec should I use for multi-piece wheels? A : 90 ft-lb (122 Nm) for M12 × 1.5 studs and 110 ft-lb (149 Nm) for M14 × 1.5 - always re-torque after 50 km. Maintenance & Longevity Q : Will a ceramic coating add brake clearance? A : No - its thickness is measured in microns. It protects finish but doesn’t change geometry. Q : Can I rotate faces between front and rear barrels? A : Yes, provided PCD, hub bore, and bolt circle are identical. Verify X-factor first; fronts usually need higher disks. Q : How often should I re-torque assembly bolts? A : Once at 100 km after refurbishment, then annually. If you spot leaks or lip weeps, service immediately. Q : Is Loctite safe on assembly bolts? A : Only low-strength (blue) on clean, dry threads. Many builders prefer mechanical lock plates; over-torquing can distort lips. Quick Reference - DOs & DON’Ts DO  measure caliper protrusion with vernier calipers; phone apps are fine for sanity checks but not final numbers. DO  choose the lowest disk that clears by ≥ 3 mm - deep lips are the reward. DON’T  assume barrel clearance just because spokes clear; always verify the inner radius. DON’T  rely solely on forum anecdotes - brake packages vary by trim and year. Still stumped?  Send our team your rotor diameter, caliper depth, and target specs - we’ll model the fit and recommend the perfect disk profile the first time. 10 | Bottom Line Low disk  = maximum lip, minimum caliper space. High disk  = maximum brake clearance, smaller lip. X-factor  tells the truth - match it to your measured caliper protrusion plus 3 mm safety. Barrel clearance depends on wheel diameter and lip style; step lips reduce inner space. Choose wisely, measure twice, and your custom wheels will bolt up perfectly - giving you the deepest dish your brakes will allow and the stance you actually envisioned. Need Help? Every WheelsGang listing shows disk type and the exact X-factor we measured in-house on a calibrated jig. Still unsure? Email or DM us your brake specs—rotor diameter, caliper depth, preferred diameter/width/offset—and our technicians will run the numbers, check barrel radius. We usually reply within 24 hours. Prefer a quick consult? Snap a photo with a ruler on the caliper, attach it to your message, and we’ll suggest the shallowest disk that clears (or the spacer thickness you’d need). Drive confident, look aggressive, and never risk turning a fresh set of three-piece wheels into expensive paperweights.

Polished-aluminum, chrome-plated, and anodized lips can transform a set of wheels from “nice” to jaw-dropping. Unfortunately, they’re also the surfaces most likely to haze, pit, or peel when hit with the wrong cleaner or neglected for even a single salty winter. Below you’ll find an expanded, step-by-step master-class - the same procedures we follow in the WheelsGang restoration bay - so you can keep that mirror gloss season after season. Identify Your Exact Finish Before you touch a wheel, confirm which finish you’re dealing with; that determines everything from chemical strength to brush stiffness. Bare polished aluminum  - Uncoated alloy that’s been machine- or hand-buffed. It oxidizes (turns dull gray) if left unprotected and is easily stained by acids. Show-chrome  - Copper, nickel, and chrome layers applied over aluminum. Brilliant shine, but the chrome layer is microns thin - scratch or corrode it and the entire finish is compromised. Polished + clear-coat  - Acrylic or urethane clear seals the shine. Safer from oxidation but vulnerable to corrosive cleaners that creep under the clear and create cloudy “worms.” Hard-anodized lip  - Electro-chemically thickened aluminum oxide. Durable, but strong alkaline products or wheel acids will discolor it permanently. Golden rule: Treat the wheel as if the most delicate surface (often the lip) is the only surface. Assemble a Finish-Safe Detailing Kit Before you even turn on the hose, stock your garage with products proven safe for delicate lips and hardware. Using the wrong chemical or brush is how most polished wheels end up cloudy and scratched. Must-have items pH-neutral wheel shampoo (pH 6 - 8)  -  safe for every finish Soft natural-hair or flagged-tip brush - boar’s hair or ultra-soft nylon Microfiber wash mitt plus two or three plush microfiber drying towels Iron-particle remover clearly labeled “clear-coat and polished-aluminum safe” Citrus tar remover for stubborn asphalt specks Fine-grade clay bar or synthetic clay mitt with lubricant Non-abrasive metal polish for aluminum/chrome (no gritty compounds) Polymer wheel wax or SiO₂ spray coating to add a sacrificial layer Nitrile gloves, detailing swabs for lug pockets, low-pressure sprayer Avoid at all costs Acid “spray-on/hos e-off” cleaners Household degreasers or oven cleaner Green Scotch-Brite, steel wool, or stiff nylon pads Drive-through washes that recycle harsh detergents Perfect Wash Routine - 10 Detailed Steps Cool the wheels.  Never wash hot rims; rapid temperature drop can micro-fracture clear coat or distort a polished surface. First rinse.  Hose the entire barrel and lip from several angles to blast away loose grit. Foam pre-soak.  Spray pH-neutral shampoo generously; let it dwell 2 - 3 minutes so surfactants can soften brake dust. Gentle agitation.  Use the soft brush on the inner barrel and around hardware, a microfiber mitt on the spokes, then finish with the lip. Rinse the tool frequently - ground brake dust is basically 150-grit sandpaper. Dissolve iron.  Mist a finish-safe iron remover; you’ll see purple streaks as ferrous particles dissolve. Rinse thoroughly before it dries. Remove tar.  Spot-apply citrus tar remover on stubborn asphalt dots; wipe with a fresh microfiber. Clay the lip.  Lubricate well, glide clay in straight lines to pull embedded contaminants. You’ll feel the surface go from gritty to glass-smooth. Final rinse.  Use a gentle “flood” of water to sheet off most droplets - less towel contact, fewer micro-swirls. Pat dry.  Lay a plush microfiber over the lip, pat, lift, repeat. Never drag. Inspect under LED light.  No film, no water spots, ready for polishing or protection. Polish the Shine - Only Where It Belongs Bare aluminum : Apply a pea-sized dab of non-abrasive polish to a microfiber applicator. Work in straight lines (arcs highlight swirls) until the residue turns dark gray; buff with a second towel. Repeat until the towel stays mostly clean. Chrome : Swap to a chrome-specific cleaner containing corrosion inhibitors. Light, even pressure - chrome layers are thin. Clear-coated lips : Skip metal polish; use a paint-safe finishing glaze if needed. Anodized lips : No abrasives. Clean, then seal. If oxidation appears under anodizing, professional re-anodizing is the only cure. Lock in the Gloss  -  Wax or Ceramic? Once your polished lips are swirl-free, you need a barrier between the metal and the elements. Pick the product that matches your effort level versus durability expectations: Traditional wheel wax   -  quick warmth and gloss; re-apply every 4 - 6 weeks Synthetic polymer wheel wax   -  chemically bonds for 2 - 3 months; better chemical resistance SiO₂ spray ceramic   -  hydrophobic slickness for 4 - 6 months and easy to top-up Pro-grade ceramic coating  (true 9H or graphene blends)  -  up to a year of protection if  applied to surgically clean metal and properly cured WheelsGang tip:  Two very light coats of polymer wax outperform one thick slather. Allow the first layer at least two hours to bond before adding the second. Oxidation-Proof Maintenance Calendar Consistency, not brute force, keeps mirror lips looking fresh. Weekly  • Quick rinse and gentle bucket wash. Damp brake dust becomes corrosive in days. Monthly  • Spray iron remover, rinse thoroughly, then refresh with SiO₂ spray or polymer wax. Every Six Months  • Strip old product, re-polish if haze returns, apply fresh polymer wax or ceramic spray. Follow that rhythm and the shine will last; skip it and you’ll battle dullness with heavy compounding later. Winter Storage - Five Rules When roads turn into salt slurries, polished and chrome lips face their harshest enemy. No coating totally stops salt corrosion, so your best defense is avoidance. Follow these steps if you store the wheels - or must keep them on the car: Detail thoroughly  before storage so contaminants aren’t trapped. Remove wheels  if possible; label their positions for spring rotation. Bag individually  in breathable totes with a silica-gel pack inside. Store upright  in a dry, climate-controlled room; never stack polished faces together. Mid-winter check-up:  Wipe condensation, reapply polymer wax or ceramic spray if the surface feels bare. Live in a region where roads are salted? Swap to a winter wheel-and-tire set. Even the toughest ceramic won’t keep polished lips flawless once salt and gravel start grinding against the metal. Five Mistakes That Destroy Polished Finishes Leaving acid wheel cleaner to dwell more than 30 seconds Power-washing closer than 12 inches - jetting micro-pits into soft aluminum Scrubbing chrome with aluminum polish - cuts through the chrome layer Parking near sprinklers: hard-water spots bake onto hot lips and etch permanently Storing unprotected wheels in damp sheds - white aluminum oxide blooms within weeks Avoid these errors and your maintenance workload drops dramatically. FAQ - Rapid Answers for Perfectionists Q: Can I substitute dish soap?A:  Only in an emergency. Most household soaps contain salt and strong degreasers that strip sealant and stain polished metal. Q: Micro-scratches appeared after my first wash - how do I fix them?A: Light haze on bare aluminum can be re-polished using non-abrasive metal polish. Scratches beneath clear coat require sanding and re-clear by a pro. Q: Is a professional ceramic coating really worth it?A:  Yes - if you value brake-dust cleanup in seconds and seasonal salt protection. Just ensure the installer removes every contaminant; trapped particles under ceramic become permanent eyesores. Q: My chrome lip has tiny rust dots. Save it or re-chrome?A:  Try a chrome-safe cleaner with corrosion inhibitors first; often the “rust” is simply embedded steel dust. If pitting has breached the chrome layer, full re-chrome is the only permanent fix. Keeping Your Wheels Looking Their Best Flawless polished lips aren’t magic - they’re the reward for gentle chemistry and a regular routine. Treat the metal kindly, protect it with a quality wax or ceramic spray, and you’ll enjoy show-car reflections long after cheaper finishes have dulled. Ready to skip the hardest steps and start with perfection? Visit WheelsGang.com  to browse our inventory of fully restored, 100 % authentic JDM and VIP wheels - each professionally polished, protected, and inspected before shipping. Bolt them on, drive with confidence, and let your wheels shine as brightly as your build. Further Reading - Detailed Maintenance for Multi-Piece Wheels Two- and three-piece rims need extra care - especially when polished lips meet powder-coated faces and delicate stainless hardware. Get a full hands-on walkthrough of safe drying techniques, low-alkaline soaps, and the exact metal polish we trust by reading   Care of Three-Piece Wheels . Master those tips and keep that mirror finish for years.

When it comes to classic Japanese car culture, few things ignite as much passion as a set of legendary JDM wheels. These are the rims that have graced everything from vintage street racers to modern track monsters, becoming icons in their own right. In the tuner world, the term "JDM wheels" stands for quality engineering, timeless design, and the distinct style of the Japanese Domestic Market. Enthusiasts across the U.S., Canada, and beyond revere these wheels as more than just accessories – they’re pieces of automotive history.  In this article, we’ll explore ten of the most iconic JDM wheels ever made – often hailed among the best JDM rims of all time – and see what makes them so special. From classic Japanese wheels of the 1970s to the cutting-edge forged designs of the 2000s, we’ll cover famous 3-piece JDM wheels, racing legends, and even VIP luxury favorites.  Each entry includes background on the wheel’s introduction, why it became iconic, notable appearances in motorsport or pop culture, and how it remains relevant today. Whether you’re a collector restoring a vintage ride or simply a car enthusiast who appreciates wheel design, these ten JDM legends deserve the spotlight. RS Watanabe Eight-Spoke (Racing Service Watanabe F8) When discussing old-school JDM wheels, Racing Service Watanabe’s eight-spoke wheel is often one of the first that comes to mind. RS Watanabe – founded back in 1966 – produced a lightweight magnesium/alloy wheel with a distinctive eight-spoke design that became a staple of Japanese motorsports and tuning. The Watanabe Eight-Spoke (sometimes called the RS8 or F8) has a simple, timeless look: a set of rounded-edge spokes radiating from a flat center, resembling a classic Minilite-style wheel but with its own JDM flair. These wheels gained fame on 1970s and 80s Japanese sports cars – think Datsun Fairlady Zs, Toyota Corolla Levins/Truenos, and Mazda RX-3s – where their race-bred appearance symbolized performance. Their popularity was not limited to the track; Watanabe wheels also featured heavily in street tuning scenes and even in anime (for instance, the Initial D  AE86 Trueno is often depicted wearing Watanabe-style wheels). The RS Watanabe eight-spoke earned icon status through widespread use and enduring style. In an era when many aftermarket wheels came and went, the Watanabe’s classic design never fell out of favor. It offers a perfect blend of form and function – lightweight and strong for racing, yet visually nostalgic for classic car builds. In fact, it’s “one of the most iconic eight-spoke wheels in history” , with a unique curved spoke shape that has been copied many times. Part of the Watanabe allure is that they “have been around forever, and they’re still produced to this day”– a testament to their timeless appeal. Enthusiasts love that authentic Watanabes bring an instant old-school JDM  credibility to any build. Many vintage Toyota and Nissan restorers insist on genuine Watanabe rims to complete the period-correct look. These wheels have a rich motorsport heritage. Variants of Watanabe eight-spokes were used on racing Datsun 510s and Toyota Celicas in the 1970s, and they were famously seen on the original Nissan Skyline GT-R (PGC10/KPGC10 “Hakosuka”) during its touring car racing dominance. In pop culture, beyond Initial D, the eight-spoke design is virtually synonymous with classic Japanese tuners – often appearing in retro car meets and nostalgic photo shoots. Their continued production means new generations of enthusiasts can still buy them today, either brand-new from RS Watanabe or as restored sets on the second-hand market. While many replicas exist, connoisseurs seek out the real deal for their superior build quality and JWL/VIA-certified strength.  Work Equip 01 (3-Piece Classic) Few wheel lines are as revered as Work Wheels’ Equip series, and the Equip 01 in particular stands as a shining example of old-school JDM style. Work Wheels launched in 1977, and its very first products were sold under the Work Equip name. The Equip 01 was among those initial designs – a 3-piece wheel with a clean five-spoke layout and polished lip that captured the late-’70s aesthetic perfectly. The design features five relatively thick, flat spokes and exposed assembly bolts around the rim, exuding that handcrafted racing feel. Offered in small diameters (13–15 inch range originally), the Equip 01 became popular on compact sports cars and hatchbacks of the era. Its deep-dish silhouette and simple spoke geometry made it a favorite for those seeking a blend of retro and motorsport looks. As one of the first commercially successful 3-piece JDM wheels, the Work Equip 01 earned a reputation for quality and style. It demonstrated the advantage of multi-piece construction – allowing wide lips and custom offsets – which was groundbreaking in the late ’70s. Over the years, the Equip 01 (and its siblings like Equip 02 and 03) became synonymous with classic Japanese tuning. In fact, “Work Wheels released their first range of wheels in 1977 under the name 'Work Equip', which continue to be manufactured today under popular demand”. That longevity speaks volumes: enthusiasts still love the Equip’s design so much that Work has kept it in production, even issuing limited anniversary editions for its 40th year.  The Equip 01’s versatile style means it looks at home on a wide variety of cars – from vintage Datsun Sunny trucks to early ’90s Honda Civics owned by kyusha (old car) aficionados. It “looks good on about anything”, as one retrospective noted about the Equip series. The Work Equip 01 and 03 were ubiquitous in the 1980s street racing and drifting scenes in Japan. If you flip through option magazines or footage from drift events of that era, you’ll spot plenty of Toyota AE86s, Nissan S13s, and older Mazdas sporting Equip wheels with stretched tires. They were also embraced by the bosozoku and shakotan subcultures – customized street cars slammed low with deep dish wheels. Notably, the Equip 01’s sibling, the Equip 03 (mesh style), was another icon often seen on classic Datsun 240Zs and Corolla Levins. Rumor has it that Work discontinued the Equip 02 in the past due to manufacturing costs, but the Equip 01 and 03 survived because demand stayed strong.  Today, Work Equip wheels are still available new in small sizes, much to the delight of retro car builders. With over four decades of prominence, the Work Equip 01 remains an enduring symbol of Japan’s aftermarket wheel heritage. SSR Professor MS3R (Modern Multi-Piece Motorsport) Launched in 2010 as part of SSR’s storied Professor series, the MS3R  injects cutting-edge motorsport tech into a timeless three-piece format. Using SSR’s SSF (Semi-Solid Forging) process, each wheel combines a heat-treated forged inner rim, a flow-formed outer barrel, and a sculpted “double-Y” mesh center. The result is exceptional rigidity with impressively low mass—ideal for both stance builds and serious track work. Diameters span 16″–19″, widths stretch from modest 7J all the way to 12J, and a rainbow of custom finishes lets tuners tailor a set to any vision. Why the MS3R has become a modern classic Race-bred construction:  SSF technology blends forging strength with flow-forming efficiency for a lighter, tougher wheel. Endurance-inspired design:  split 10-spoke “double-Y” mesh echoes GT racing wheels while a deep polished lip and exposed hardware nod to earlier Professor icons like the SP1. Broad spec catalog:  from narrow faces perfect for FF Hondas and Miatas to wide, concave profiles suited for drift or time-attack machines. Custom everything:  bolt pattern, offset, color (Brilliant Silver to Super Black Coat) and center-disk machining—all made to order in Japan. Cross-scene credibility:  equally at home on track-focused S2000s, VIP Lexus sedans, or stance-built 350Zs—few wheels bridge so many sub-cultures. Enthusiasts praise the MS3R for delivering “modern engineering without sacrificing classic JDM mesh vibes.” On the circuit, drivers appreciate its rigidity and brake-cooling windows; on show floors, builders flaunt the mirror lips and intricate spoke cuts. Because SSR still produces the MS3R to special order—and clean second-hand sets hold value—collectors regularly scour WheelsGang and other specialists for rare specs or discontinued finishes. Whether you’re chasing lap times or parking-lot trophies, the SSR Professor MS3R proves that the mesh wheel formula can evolve gracefully into the 21st century while staying true to its JDM roots. Yokohama Advan (Super Advan SA3R) Three-Spoke No list of iconic JDM wheels would be complete without a nod to the wild three-spoke designs that defined late-1980s and 1990s Japanese tuning. At the top of that pyramid sits the Yokohama Advan Racing tri-spoke, most famously the Super Advan SA3R (Version 1) and its later iterations. Instantly recognizable, the SA3R’s triangular three-spoke center—often finished in two-tone with deep scalloping and a chunky hub—looked nothing like the mesh or multi-spoke wheels dominating the era. Nicknamed “Advan Oni” (oni = demon) for its aggressive styling, the original SA3R was a 3-piece wheel sized for the period’s hottest performance cars and intended for both street and circuit use. Love it or hate it, the Advan three-spoke captures the unrestrained spirit of 1990s Japanese tuning culture. While many brands played it safe, Yokohama’s Advan division doubled down on bold aesthetics—creating a wheel that became “instantly recognizable as an Advan” and cemented the company as the authority on three-spokes. Japanese Nostalgic Car magazine even wrote that “Advan is probably the most famous purveyor of three-spoke wheels”—and the SA3R is why. What made the Super Advan SA3R an instant icon? Two-tone drama:  Black or gunmetal spokes paired with bright rims, often in Advan’s signature red/black livery. Motorsport pedigree:  Lightweight, open-spoke design delivered cooling and strength; used on FC3S RX-7s and JTCC touring cars. Ubiquitous street presence:  Seen on everything from Honda Civics and Nissan Silvias to MR2s during Japan’s bubble-era tuner boom. Pop-culture imprint:  Featured in Gran Turismo  games, Option video VHS tapes, and countless ’90s tuner magazines. Cult longevity:  Original sets are collectibles; Yokohama’s modern Advan Oni 2  (2022) proves enduring demand. Tri-spokes in gold adorned race cars, while street racers (hashiriya) and early drift machines wore them proudly—underlining the SA3R’s versatility. Although the wheel was discontinued, then briefly revived as the Gen 2, the appetite for its audacious style never waned. Today pristine originals fetch premium prices, and limited reissues (like those 15-inch Oni 2s) sell out fast. In short, the Yokohama Advan three-spoke dared to be different and succeeded, leaving an indelible mark on JDM culture that still turns heads three decades later. Blitz Type 03 In the world of 1990s JDM wheels, the Blitz Type 03 has achieved a near-legendary status, especially in recent years as nostalgia for ’90s tuning grows. Blitz Co. is better known as a performance parts and tuning company, but in the mid-90s they introduced the Type 01, 02, and 03 wheel lineup in collaboration with Japanese wheel manufacturers. The Type 03, in particular, stood out with its aggressive split-spoke design. It’s a two-piece wheel characterized by what looks like three pairs of thick spokes (often described as a split six-spoke or split three-spoke design) that angle sharply toward the rim. The overall effect is a wheel that appears both sturdy and avant-garde – perfect for the high-horsepower builds of the 90s. Blitz offered the Type 03 in sizes accommodating popular sports cars like the Toyota Supra, Mazda RX-7, and Nissan Skyline. Many came in a machine silver finish, highlighting the wheel’s intricate surfacing. The Blitz Type 03 has become extremely sought-after for a few reasons. First, its design is truly distinctive; there’s an almost industrial, mechanical beauty to the split-spoke look that resonated with tuners aiming for a “works” style on their car. It’s equal parts form and function – the open spaces help with brake cooling, and the construction was strong enough for spirited driving. Over time, as original sets grew scarce (Blitz wheels were discontinued decades ago), the Type 03 gained a mystique. It “has blown up on the internet in recent years” as enthusiasts rediscover its rarity and appea. According to one source, “with the hype around them, they’re going for astronomical prices” on the used market. Indeed, a mint set of Blitz 03s can cost as much as a set of brand-new high-end forged wheels. There’s substance behind the hype: “the Type 03 features a split five-spoke design that’s aggressive and dives back in towards the barrel… these wheels stand out on any car”. They manage to be show-stoppers without being gaudy. For many, owning a set of Type 03s is a badge of honor, signaling that your build spares no expense in chasing period-correct perfection. During the late ’90s, Blitz Type 03s were seen on a variety of notable tuner cars. Blitz’s own demo vehicles (such as their R33 Skyline or JZA80 Supra in tuning magazines) often sported Type 03 wheels, showcasing their products. The wheels also made it into the drifting world; for instance, some of the early D1 Grand Prix drift cars and Drift Tengoku feature cars used Blitz wheels. Despite being performance-capable, the Type 03’s bold style made it a favorite for show cars as well – you’d see them chromed or color-coded on vehicles at car shows in Japan and North America alike. After production stopped, the legend only grew – these rims were no longer easy to get, making them even more desirable. In recent times, social media has played a role in their renaissance.  Photos of perfectly restored Blitz 03s on a stance-built S-chassis or time attack Supra rack up thousands of likes, fueling demand globally. Some companies have even made tribute designs or replicas, but for purists, only an authentic Blitz 03 will do. Specialty importers and wheel resellers occasionally get hold of used sets, and they tend to sell quickly despite high prices. The Blitz Type 03 represents the zenith of ’90s JDM wheel design – daring, rare, and undeniably cool. Its return to prominence among collectors confirms its spot as one of the all-time greats. Weds Kranze ERM (Mesh Elegance With an Edge) The Weds Kranze ERM  arrived in the early 2000s as Kranze’s answer to the demand for refined mesh wheels in the premium market. Crafted as a true three-piece, the ERM sports a razor-thin, 20-spoke web that converges on a minimalist hub, framed by exposed assembly bolts and a mirror-polished step lip. Chrome or brushed centers with gold hardware were common factory options, accentuating the VIP aesthetic. The ERM married lightweight multi-piece construction with show-car flash, making it a fixture on both slammed Aristos in Japan and luxury builds across North America. Its intricately sculpted spokes catch light from every angle, giving moving cars a jewel-like sparkle that mesh aficionados still chase today. Because Weds limited production and continuously updated the Kranze line, clean ERMs became scarce - driving up collector interest. Restored ERMs routinely headline classifieds on enthusiast sites; builders love them for their balance of classic mesh styling and VIP aggression. WheelsGang  occasionally sources chrome-face ERMs with polished lips - perfect for anyone wanting a period-correct mesh that still turns heads at modern meets. Nismo LMGT4 Born from a partnership between Nissan’s in-house motorsport arm and RAYS Engineering, the Nismo LMGT4 holds a special place in Japanese performance-car history. Released in 2001 for GT-R and Z-car duty, it echoed the forged DNA of the Volk TE37 yet carried unmistakable NISMO branding and GT-focused fitments (17–18", 9J-plus widths). Finished in white, bronze, or black—with that signature NISMO decal on a single spoke—the LMGT4 delivered OEM legitimacy in a lightweight, track-ready package. Why the LMGT4 became legendary Race-bred construction:  one-piece forged by RAYS, giving TE37-level rigidity while slashing unsprung weight. Perfect OEM-plus design:  clean five spokes with a subtle dish flatters Skyline GT-Rs, 300ZXs, and Silvia S15s alike. Limited availability:  often dealer-option or special-order only; reissues (e.g., 40th-Anniv. editions) sell out instantly. Motorsport & media fame:  factory-equipped on the 2003 R34 GT-R Nismo Z-Tune, featured in Gran Turismo  menus and countless tuner magazines. Collector prestige:  authentic sets command premium prices; purists consider them the only “correct” wheel for period GT-Rs. Owners rave that the LMGT4’s forged shell “offers a drastic cut in unsprung load while retaining high rigidity,” translating to sharper turn-in and better damping on real roads. Small wonder lower-tier GT teams even raced on them when center-lock wheels weren’t mandated. Today, genuine sets vanish fast whenever Nismo opens a preorder window, and used examples in good shape fetch top dollar at JDM specialists. OEM credibility plus aftermarket performance—that synergy crowns the LMGT4 as the five-spoke icon for Nissan loyalists. For many GT-R purists it isn’t just an option; it’s the gold standard. Enkei RPF1 The Enkei RPF1 may be a relatively modern wheel (introduced in 2002), but it has swiftly risen to become one of the most recognizable and respected JDM wheel designs worldwide. Enkei, a longtime supplier of both OEM and racing wheels (including Formula 1 teams), created the RPF1 as part of their Racing Series lineup with direct input from motorsports. It’s a one-piece cast wheel (using Enkei’s MAT flow-forming process) known for its ultralight weight and classic twin-six-spoke design. The RPF1’s spoke pattern is distinctive: it has six primary paired spokes (making 12 thin spokes total) with a sleek, contoured shape and a slight dish toward the center. Typically finished in silver, bronze, or matte black, the RPF1 prioritizes function, but its form has proven to be universally appealing. Available in a huge range of sizes (from 14” up to 19”) and many bolt patterns, Enkei made sure the RPF1 could fit everything from Miatas and Civics to Evos and Corvettes. The Enkei RPF1 is often hailed as one of the most iconic aftermarket wheels of all time, and for good reason. Upon its debut in 2002, it was “an instant hit thanks to its high strength, low weight, and no-nonsense design”. Racers and tuners alike were drawn to how the RPF1 offered near-forged wheel performance at a cast wheel price point. The 17x9 size, for example, weighs roughly 15 lbs, which was astonishingly light when it first hit the market – and still competitive today. The design’s origin in racing (the RPF1 was reportedly designed with input from the McLaren F1 team for a lighter F1 rain wheel) gives it credibility. One blogger aptly stated: “Since [its introduction] it has found its way on pretty much every type of vehicle you can imagine, becoming one of the most iconic aftermarket wheels of all time”.  Part of its appeal is versatility: the RPF1 looks just as appropriate on a 90s Honda Civic as it does on a modern Subaru WRX or even a BMW track car. The twin six-spoke layout is both aesthetically balanced and structurally efficient, which is why it hasn’t needed a redesign in over two decades. Enthusiasts also appreciate the RPF1’s relatively affordable cost – it made high-performance wheels accessible, thus spreading its popularity far and wide. In essence, Enkei struck gold with a wheel that meets the trifecta of being lightweight, strong, and affordable, all while sporting a clean motorsport look. The RPF1 quickly became a staple in grassroots motorsports. If you attend any track day, autocross, or time attack event in North America or Japan, you’re almost guaranteed to see a plethora of cars running RPF1s. They’ve been used in pro racing too – everything from touring cars to drift cars have equipped RPF1s because of their reliability under stress. A famous example is their use in Super Taikyu race series in Japan on endurance race cars. They also gained OEM endorsement of sorts; Mazda offered an RPF1-style wheel (produced by Enkei) on special edition MX-5 Miatas from the factory, recognizing the wheel’s merits. Culturally, while the RPF1 might not have the retro aura of a wire mesh or a three-spoke, it has become a modern classic – frequently appearing in YouTube build videos, forum discussions about “best track wheels”, and social media posts showcasing functional stance builds. The wheel’s name even carries weight: RPF1 stands for Racing Performance and the “F1” is a nod to Formula 1, underscoring the technology transfer from racing. As for current relevance, the Enkei RPF1 is still in production and still in high demand. Enkei has kept it in their lineup because it continues to sell extremely well, even as trends come and go. Its enduring popularity is further cemented by enthusiasts who often say, “You can’t go wrong with RPF1s” as a default choice for performance wheels. For those buying used, the secondary market is strong – a testament to their durability (they often survive track abuse and can be refinished). Some wheel shops and importers deal in special finishes of RPF1s or rare sizes that are hard to find. Ultimately, the Enkei RPF1’s legacy is that of a no-compromise wheel for the everyman racer. In much the same way the Volk TE37 is idolized in the high-end segment, the RPF1 is cherished in the grassroots and tuner community, earning it a rightful spot among the top iconic JDM wheels ever. Work Meister S1 (3-Piece Forged) Introduced in the late 1990s, the Work Meister S1 perfectly marries classic styling with modern three-piece construction. Work Wheels revived the multi-piece formula—broad, stumpy five spokes set inside a mirror-polished lip—but re-engineered it for contemporary cars and custom specs. Two versions exist: S1 2P (two-piece) and the coveted S1 3P, whose exposed hardware and colossal lips make it a show-field favorite. Diameters span 15″ – 19″+ and Work’s custom order program lets builders specify offset, PCD, and even wild candy hues, turning every set into a bespoke accessory. Why the Meister S1 became an icon Timeless design:  stubby five-spoke face with graceful spoke curvature that spotlights big brake kits. Deep-dish drama:  3-piece architecture enables lips 4″+ wide for aggressive stance or VIP fitment. Bespoke manufacturing:  built-to-order in Japan—exact bolt pattern, offset and finish for each customer. Proven strength:  forged centers withstand track abuse; drift and grip cars alike trust Meisters. Cross-scene appeal:  equally at home on R32 GT-Rs, 350Zs, Junction Produce Lexus VIP builds, and even Euro show cars. Popularity exploded in the 2000s as stance culture blossomed—polished S1s tucked under rolled fenders became the flex on internet-famous 350Zs and ER34 Skylines. Yet Meisters aren’t pure showpieces: Ken Nomura piloted D1GP drift cars on them, and grip racers exploit their width potential. Copycat designs have surfaced, but purists still chase authentic Work Meisters for the prestige and resale value—older “square W” center caps alone fetch premiums. Today the Meister S1 remains a living legend. Lead times can stretch months, yet enthusiasts wait patiently, knowing each set is wheel art tailored to their build. Used examples trade fast, especially rare specs or vintage caps. Work has spawned derivatives (S1R, center-lock variants), but the original five-spoke 3-piece endures as the jewel: proof that evolving a classic concept can create a new icon worthy of the JDM hall of fame. Leon Hardiritt Rasen (VIP-Style Sophistication) Debuting in the mid-2000s as part of Super Star’s elite Leon Hardiritt line, the Rasen  was designed to give big-bodied sedans an unmistakably regal presence. It’s a three-piece forged wheel distinguished by its sweeping, split-five-spoke pattern that arcs gracefully toward an outsized polish-step lip - instantly telegraphing VIP luxury. Sizes start at 19 inches and climb past 21, with interchangeable high-disk or low-disk faces to clear massive brake kits or tuck deep under air-ride fenders. Every set is built to order in Japan and hand-torqued, so you’re paying for couture craftsmanship as much as for metal. In the VIP community “Rasen” translates to status. Its broad, twisting spokes create a turbine-like effect when rolling, while the signature Leon knight-helmet cap lends an air of exclusivity. Limited production runs and steep pricing kept numbers low, which only amplified desire - spotting a genuine set at Wekfest or StanceNation still draws crowds. Enthusiasts prize the wheel not for lap times but for the statement it makes: that you’ve invested in the highest echelon of Japanese luxury tuning. Rasen fitments for Lexus LS/GS, Nissan Cima or Toyota Crown continue to trade hands rapidly in VIP classifieds; refinished sets on WheelsGang rarely sit unsold for long. Builders chasing period-correct bippu style routinely rank the Rasen alongside the deepest Ordens or Bugels as the wheel that completes a show-winning executive sedan. Legends That Transcend Time The ten wheels highlighted above each tell a chapter in the story of JDM automotive passion. From lightweight racing rims shaving seconds off lap times to deep-dish classics defining the look of an era, these iconic JDM wheels earned their reputations through performance, style and cultural impact - and their appeal still transcends trends. Engineering never ages.  Designs like the Volk TE37 and Enkei RPF1 remain in production because superior metallurgy and weight savings are always relevant. Classic designs come back.  SSR Formula Mesh and Work Equip continue to be re-released - or lovingly restored by specialists - thanks to unending demand for vintage style. Rarity fuels desirability.  Wheels such as Blitz Type 03 or Leon Hardiritt Orden command premium prices because limited runs and cult followings keep supply low. Wheels are identity.  Whether it’s a forged six-spoke on a track missile or a polished VIP modular on a luxury cruiser, the right rim expresses who you are as a car enthusiast. As you plan wheels for your own build - be it a classic Datsun, a ’90s import, or a modern performance car - remember these legends. Mounting any one of them might inspire you to carry their legacy forward, mile after mile. Ready to make the leap? Browse our catalog  at WheelsGang.com and choose from these icons - alongside dozens of other legendary, 100% original JDM wheels - restored, authenticated, and ready to ship worldwide.  Find your perfect set today, drive with history tomorrow. Safe driving and happy building!

To keep your wheels looking great for as long as possible, regular maintenance is essential. Cleaning from brake dust, road dirt. Generally polished lips require the most attention and care as they are polished aluminum! Faces are more resistant to dirt as they are powder coated. I advise not to use active foam with high alkaline content for wheel washing. It is better to use only water and a sponge (special wheel cleaners may be used). Active foam will rub off the polished layer and may also cause a rash on the lips! In this blog I will talk about my own experience with three piece wheels and care! To care for a set of wheels you will need: water, sponge, synthetic suede, polishing paste (I used Doctor Wax Metal polish), microfiber. The algorithm is quite simple, but I recommend washing in the shade, without sunlight. First, wash the wheels with water and a sponge (you can apply a special detergent for wheels). Then keep the water dry, for this we need a synthetic suede. We remove the water droplets from the polished lips, I do this in the shade so I have time to wipe my lips before they dry in the sun. After I removed all the water from the wheels and waited for them to dry, I proceed to the application of polishing paste (after application it forms a protective layer and gives shine to polished aluminum). Here I use microfiber and polishing paste (Doctor Wax Metal polish). The paste should be applied in small layers on the microfiber and rubbed in sections on the rim of the wheel. Afterwards, make sure that there is no paste left on the lips. With this simple maintenance you will significantly prolong the attractive appearance of your jdm wheels. I hope I was able to tell you a little about the finer points of using three piece wheels, thanks for reading this blog, see you later!